Hawaiian charger was found "unconcious and foaming at the mouth"
“Jarryd whips me in and says, mate, don’t even look behind you – you don’t want to know what’s coming.”
Three monsters later, Andrew Cotton gives away his secrets.
The first time that she's spoken candidly about the heaviest experience that a surfer endure.
“He lifted his shirt and what was underneath looked like he had thrown himself onto a hand grenade filled with reef shrapnel.”
Surfing goes mainstream and Bruce Irons makes TMZ