Surfing is FUN again. I mean, it always has been fun, that’s the reason why we took it up, the reason why we signed our lives away to the incessant pursuit of wave riding, but sometimes it feels like we forget. Sometimes we get all caught up in trying to be better surfers that we forget why we do it. We get caught up in weights training, healthy eating, holding your breath, getting respect, board design and catching the biggest, and best, waves possible, that it can drain the heck out of us. So we decided to take a breather from the madness and reflect on all the fun that can be drawn from our favourite sport/pastime/hobby.
We got our favourite surf writers to let us know their concept of fun in surfing. What they came up with is in insightful and inspiring. It’ll make you take a deep breath next time you’re having a bad surf, make you take a pause, and reset, and finish your surf out with a smile on your face.
We tagged along with Creed McTaggart, Chippa Wilson and Oliver Kurtz when they went out west to hang out with the king of Yallingup, one Mr Taj Burrow. Taj has a perma-grin on his dial, and that sure ain’t because he takes life, and surfing, too seriously. At the same time, Otis Carey and Eli Steele take to the highways of the USA and have fun where you and I might not have expected it.
Andrew Shield went straight from Hawaii to perfectly terrifying P-Pass. It doesn’t look like much fun, but Soli Bailey, one of the stars of the trip, calls it “probably the best trip of his life”. Have a look, the photos are beautiful.
The main feature of the FUN issue, however, is devoted to one Gabriel Medina. He may seem like an unlikely candidate for the FUN issue, but that’s not the case. He’s a great guy, a surfer of prodigious talent, given the difficult task of growing up in the public eye. Sometimes Australian surf fans get Gabriel wrong, and we want to change that.
Rounding out the issue is a great piece by Adrian Buchan on keeping the stoke in your surfing, we chat to the guys who are trying to spread the Smile message around the world, and we objectify the Miller sisters (yep, Kelly and Taj’s Miller sisters).
If Surfing Life 306 is half as much fun to read as it was to make, then you’re in for a darn good time.